Robino Jones

Can't help with iMovie - but I would suggest installing Davinci Resolve, it's free and you can do everything in there including resizing clips to any aspect ratios.

Cued a video about Kubrick's solution to pulling focus with the F0.7 lens in Barry Lyndon.

Interesting - This phenomenon also appears on daylight footage. See picture: I always find night scenes with point lights like cars, street lamps, signage more pleasing when it's shot on film but also cool that you get some of it on daylight footage too.

The issue is that his demo now appears on "mainstream" sites (see the Polygon article) and a lot of people who read the article won't have the education or experience to know or understand what you listed above. Here's an excerpt from the article: "...as Yedlin tells Polygon, when screened in theaters to an array of industry professionals, almost no one could tell the difference." So if Yedlin went a little further with his test and shot the points you listed out, and I would also add to your list a shot of cars at night with red tail lights and front lights so you see the nice orbs that only film can do - maybe everyone in that theatre would have picked up the film immediately? His demo is fine but anyone can do that. The setups are flat and the challenge is fairly low. Personally I prefer shooting on film because I get inspiring images to work with out of the box. You get what some people call "the film look" or "filmic" (guys always get blasted on here when mentioning these terms) with amazing skin tones and color separation plus you have a nice physical backup as a bonus ?

I have no idea.. you can call them they're in L.A. What is "gimmick shooting" and why do you care so much about how many?

At Reel Good where I purchase my film, the owners always tell me that students and young people are the ones buying the most film - mostly 16mm.

Another trick is to bring a DSLR to check exposure and get a visual. Set ISO to film ASA and match the stop on the lenses. I do that sometimes AFTER metering with my light meter just to give a little re-assurance when I'm not feeling 100% in some environments. You should shoot a test roll in this location and take a lot of notes. During this test you can also bring your DSLR and shoot digital references at the same time to see if you can rely on it after you get the scan.

I did 2 slitscan logos for projects recently. You will need a motion control and a precise way to trigger your SLR for every frame (long exposure). These 2 logos were done using a Canon 5DMKII. Next step is using a film camera and go the whole way ? Exposure time was 15sec for each frame in both examples. Password: slitscan And this one, the logo is at the end. No computer generated elements in this - all practical. Computer used for compositing only.

I'm getting back to designing / 3D printing during the lockdown. Made this little guide that I epoxied on scissors to help me cut film in the changing bag. I could never do a straight cut and it was slowing me down while loading my Aaton 35III mags. Works great and will also be useful when loading still film too.

What about the labs? There's so little of them, I hope they're going to be ok. I hope Fotokem is not going anywhere soon.

Yes there's a standard def tap attached to the camera, it's very easy to remove. The camera is a SONY XC-77 black and white. 2/3rd sensor size. here's a doc on it: http://www.ccdworld.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/xc-77-Brochure.pdf

Totally understood - In your opinion, could this be adapted to the 35III ? If so i'm in as well

Very nice - curious about the camera you are using for your tap.

Yes we’ve all seen his controlled test.. nice demo. The point is, in real life, when it’s not controlled, can his proprietary algorithms faithfully emulate film? I don’t think so. Knives Out doesn’t look like it was shot on film, and he used his algorithms on it. Even Rian Johnson gushed about it, here’s the clip https://youtu.be/69GjaVWeGQM?t=1313 So I guess to faithfully emulate film on a digital show you need to shoot film side by side? That’s actually not a bad idea, hire a still photographer that shoots film reference for all setups and spend the money matching in post. ..or just shoot on film.

I recommend the Spectra IV Cine. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/245894-REG/Spectra_Cine_18002AB_Professional_IV_A_P_2000EL_A_Digital.html/?ap=y&ap=y&smp=y&smp=y&lsft=BI%3A514&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIosSt8pSU6AIVT9bACh2bxgWfEAQYASABEgIXi_D_BwE

NAB 2020 is cancelled. https://nabshow.com/2020/attend/onsite-services/coronavirus-update-and-resources/

I'm in L.A and I go to movies a lot, it's astonishing to see how careless people are in movie theaters and public places. People sniffle, cough left and right without covering their mouths. After peeing or number two'ing - most people only rinse their hands with water, some with soap for 2 seconds and a lot of people just skip all together and just bolt out of the restroom. Last Thursday I went to Simsy in Burbank after a Fotokem run and the waitress literally could not breath from her mouth, sweating and wiping her dripping nose on her shoulder while typing on the iPad register. (which was being used by all other waiters, waitresses). These people most probably don't have the Coronavirus but it shows complete carelessness about the situation. I can sympathize with the waitress though(or any people who work in public), she needs to pay her bills and she probably can't afford to stay home. It's pretty nasty though. I have yet to see people washing their hands properly in public places - If people want to go to NAB, or go on airplanes - go for it! Just be aware that most people only think about themselves and have no regard for you or your families. It's only a bad Flu some people say, well I don't want to get THAT flu so no NAB for me. If only people would follow the basic recommendations we would be in a better place, unfortunately people don't give a sh&t and buy all the toilet paper and hand sanitizer they can get their hands on. good stuff!

I'm looking to upgrade my scanner's camera and based on this discussion, the Sony Pregius IMX253 seems to be a good choice for 4K. I see that multiple machine vision manufacturer are using the IMX253 in their cameras (Imperx, Flir etc.. ) and I'm not sure which one would be the easiest to integrate to my system. Would the FLIR version be a good choice? this one: https://www.flir.com/products/oryx-10gige/?model=ORX-10G-123S6C-C How much coding is needed to start capturing images with a machine vision camera like this?

http://www.jinnimag.com/index.html

His demo looks impressive but it's really just a shot matching demo and it's not too hard if you have both 35mm and digital footage side by side, especially if you're the one who shot both. Would be interesting to see a test with a different person shooting the 35mm and he shoots the digital version of a scene. Then have him put his secret sauce but without having him look at the film reference.. just his sauce. I would also suggest more challenging scenes this time with some colors, some mixed color temperatures and a night setup where you see car headlights / brake lights. Then we we could really see what the secret sauce can do.

I don't know about Fotokem having Imagicas but they scanned a project for me last year in 4K on Scanity . They saved me quite a bit of money by splicing / prepping together a couple rolls. They charged by the hour not footage count and my job was under 1 hour and didn't have to pay for the full hour. Only the time needed for scan and data transfer. The scans were really really nice.

This is a true 12V battery, (operates between 11.1 and 12.6 VDC) this is what I use for my Aaton. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1048193-REG/bescor_fp_12vatm_12v_lithium_ion_battery.html I didn't know about 12V DTap / Xlr Voltage regulators , would love to get one so I can use my Vmount batteries as well if needed. If anyone has links to a good one would be great. I found this but it's a little pricy: https://proflixsales.com/12ptif.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=1o2&scid=scplp12PTIF&sc_intid=12PTIF&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6qPc1MK_5gIVYhh9Ch1p_QUKEAQYAiABEgJrivD_BwE

Thanks, yes we used my Aaton.

Added contrast to your image to see the spots better. Could this be from the scan? Maybe you can't see the spots in other places because there's detail in the frame? Just a guess..

Sharing this music video I directed and shot some of the 4x3 footage, Mark Putnam was DP on this. Shot on 5207 and 5219 and scanned on my scanner. I recommend watching in 4K or 2K since the film grain is not totally eradicated from the YouTube re-encoding at those resolutions. 1080 looks really bad. I noticed that most music videos, even big artists never upload 2k or 4K, looks much better for Youtube.