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Chris Steel

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About Chris Steel

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  • Occupation
    1st Assistant Camera
  • Location
    London
  • My Gear
    Preston 2 channel - HU3 MDR4
  1. I appear to have spotted this a little late. Think I was having a lazy Sunday then too. Hope it worked out?
  2. No film set in the UK gets started without a visit to the NAAFI Canteen
  3. The geometry looks a bit like it has vice grip esc elements. Quick locking and release catch? Hard to tell from those images. In my opinion it would need to have at least the option of a junior spigot on it to be useful.
  4. In the report I read they mentioned it would be a rotating group shown during commercial breaks, so next year it will be a different 4 categories. I hope as a sign of solidarity and fairness; producers, directors, leading actors, and composers all take their awards during commercial breaks next year... Yeah, thought not
  5. This video by Linus shows how they make it so small and also why the fans are so loud. Everything is super tight in there. Barely any air flow compared to even an alexa mini https://youtu.be/qFrK-l3VSzY?t=395 The new Red Ranger (for rental houses) looks very interesting. As it has an integrated rear module, the cooling area is increased and the fans can be made larger. All this adds up to 10db quieter running (according to the team at BSC this year). It's still smaller than the venice and has all the ports for integrated power supply.
  6. Might be worth having a play with different Power, Strength, Acceleration, and Deadband settings to get something responsive without side to side wiggle. I've used some kits that will bounce around an end mark if you pan too quickly until Hold Strength and Power are balanced out.
  7. Certainly sounds interesting. Beats making up 2m cables for everything and strapping them together. Is the umbilical relatively light and flexible? What outputs can be put on the end?
  8. Been an issue for a while with this combination. There are a few cable work arounds if you have a TC device that can loop through an RS signal but I think you'll lose the CTRL link. If you need remote RS for every shot, jam sync often and hope it sticks through an entire take. I'd recommend leaving a TC device on camera and switching the cables back and fourth depending on the needs of the shot or whenever the camera turns on. If someone has a better solution I'd love to hear it, this feels pretty janky to me still...
  9. This should work with all LANC style RS which includes most prosumer cameras like the FS7, FS5, A7 (series), Canon C (series), Blackmagic (series)
  10. Hawk woods make a Vlock plate for the TV logic which should sit on top of a teradek spacer (like the Media Blackout one) It's intended for use with the new HawkWoods Vlock Mini batteries as they're quite light. I power my 058 with VLM-50 batteries most of the time and mount to a manfrotto camera/umbrella clamp with the teradek on a spigot at the back. Not an ideal setup as it's a little heavy when mounted to the hand unit and not a stand. I've seen several people mount directly to a sun shade but I imagine that's more down to individual ACs and not rental houses
  11. You can get colour golf tees by the 50 pack for a few £ / $ - Check the sort of turf will be ok with being skewered. I'm sure sausage marks would be fine for dolly and crane marks. Metal T's are great, lots of gravity to them. Rubber marks are a good DIY option. Spray chalk is a thing. canned air held upside-down to freeze it then brush it loose for when you're done. I'm sure most 2nd ACs will have that sort of thing in their kit already or given notice could sort out such things for you.
  12. If it's particularly wet: Bag the camera, optical flat, allweather tape inside the mattebox to fill any gaps / wipe clean easily. PPE should also be worn if there's air canons in play. Sure don't want to loose an eye, not in this trade.
  13. I should preface, I'm a 1st AC and not a DP so this is all from what I've seen on set and I'm leaving things out which I would consider the working DP's IP or personal technique. 4'x4' Poly or bounce board hidden out of shot so when the torches land there you get more fill on that side. Far side seemed to work well. Maybe use unbleached muslin or other material to give a more natural feeling bounce. In close ups where one or more character is completely out of shot, have a spark operate the torch or instruct the actor to have the torch somewhere that gives more fill. Have actors point torches at each other when talking, to the chest worked well if standing close together as it wasn't too harsh. Finding some way of adding "realistic" practicals or external light could help you out. Inexplicable shafts of moonlight for example.
  14. I've had a preset with a slight crop on the framelines and a 75% matte to "hide" the vignette. Wont zoom in as such but it works well enough. I used the Arri framelines tool as it has more options than in camera
  15. The Ronin M is really quite small. Even the FS5 can be a pain to rig if you have a bigger lens, wireless focus, scratch audio on there. As shown in the video above, Cine Milled plate is a must. I'd also recommend the Pan weight system as well if you're using cine style lenses (even the Samyangs) with wireless focus as you'll only just get pan balance without. I've seen FS5 owners use an Atomos recorder to get better quality out. That adds a bit to the price but would give you a much better monitor to operate the gimbal with on top of better image quality.
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