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Chris Steel

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About Chris Steel

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  • Occupation
    1st Assistant Camera
  • Location
    London
  • My Gear
    Preston 2 channel - HU3 MDR4

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  1. Case-design.co.uk made that case and they make complete kits for monitors. I'm sure there are other places that do similar cases and mounts but I've only ever used the case design ones
  2. a carefully placed lens support with a rubber foot or strap on a static part of the lens. A cheap support is probably best as they are aimed at this sort of thing. If you have the option, turn the motor torque down to minimise stress on the adaptor. Pair of vice grips on hand just to threaten the lens with 😉
  3. In my experience method one is the preferred and it's how most professional cameras are set up. The second method is useful when working with cameras that don't natively support TC (Sony FS5, Fuji XT3) Most devices can hold time code longer than any single clip so I wouldn't be so worried about drift in a take unless there's a frame rate issue.
  4. Not just sand but sea air. Bag it. Keep caps on lenses as much as possible. Good sealing mattebox (clamp on) with optical flat. Lots of kenair, hand blowers. Small paintbrush to get rid of loose sand that gets in the bag. Silica gel packs in the lens box and camera coffin to reduce humidity. I carry large elastic bands and backpack covers to help close gaps and keep bags tight to the camera. My backpack covers are silver on one side to reduce heat from the sun (works ok in the UK but hotter places may need additional effort to cool the camera). Cover everything not in use. Clean lenses, filters & camera as often as possible, especially before boxing it overnight. There are a few posts about this already so worth checking out. Some people are really used to it and are really minimal, which is fine if you know what is good and bad but if sand is uncommon for you, extra vigilance can't be bad right?
  5. I started with a leica D110 which is small and relatively cheap. Not great range and is hard to see in direct sunlight but it is very fast and good for interiors. Has bluetooth so you can combine it with your phone to build floor plans. I've used a few and most work the same, some are slow to boot up and others you can't turn the beep off. I now run the Hilti PD-E like many 1st AC's I know. Feature rich, optical viewfinder, great range in sunlight. The laser isn't that easy to see in bright sunlight without using the viewfinder but it does get readings.
  6. The main one used is 35mm film cores from motion picture film. Pretty standard practice. For spike tape 16mm cores work well or empty sellotape cores. I've also seen some people use PVC pipe cut to size but not sure how that weighs up price wise if you don't already have spare bits lying around.
  7. I appear to have spotted this a little late. Think I was having a lazy Sunday then too. Hope it worked out?
  8. No film set in the UK gets started without a visit to the NAAFI Canteen
  9. The geometry looks a bit like it has vice grip esc elements. Quick locking and release catch? Hard to tell from those images. In my opinion it would need to have at least the option of a junior spigot on it to be useful.
  10. In the report I read they mentioned it would be a rotating group shown during commercial breaks, so next year it will be a different 4 categories. I hope as a sign of solidarity and fairness; producers, directors, leading actors, and composers all take their awards during commercial breaks next year... Yeah, thought not
  11. This video by Linus shows how they make it so small and also why the fans are so loud. Everything is super tight in there. Barely any air flow compared to even an alexa mini https://youtu.be/qFrK-l3VSzY?t=395 The new Red Ranger (for rental houses) looks very interesting. As it has an integrated rear module, the cooling area is increased and the fans can be made larger. All this adds up to 10db quieter running (according to the team at BSC this year). It's still smaller than the venice and has all the ports for integrated power supply.
  12. Might be worth having a play with different Power, Strength, Acceleration, and Deadband settings to get something responsive without side to side wiggle. I've used some kits that will bounce around an end mark if you pan too quickly until Hold Strength and Power are balanced out.
  13. Certainly sounds interesting. Beats making up 2m cables for everything and strapping them together. Is the umbilical relatively light and flexible? What outputs can be put on the end?
  14. Been an issue for a while with this combination. There are a few cable work arounds if you have a TC device that can loop through an RS signal but I think you'll lose the CTRL link. If you need remote RS for every shot, jam sync often and hope it sticks through an entire take. I'd recommend leaving a TC device on camera and switching the cables back and fourth depending on the needs of the shot or whenever the camera turns on. If someone has a better solution I'd love to hear it, this feels pretty janky to me still...
  15. This should work with all LANC style RS which includes most prosumer cameras like the FS7, FS5, A7 (series), Canon C (series), Blackmagic (series)
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