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Chris Steel

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About Chris Steel

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  • Occupation
    1st Assistant Camera
  • Location
    London
  • My Gear
    Preston 2 channel - HU3 MDR4

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  1. I've not had access to kinefinity cameras since the kinemax 6k so I'm guessing they've improved build quality since then. The kinemax was a bit of a mess. Badly translated and confusing menus. Didn't play well with teradeks, in-fact sdi outputs where pretty shoddy, worse than some video taps. Had several issues around monitor connections (like the red one used to have). But then the footage would be transcoded from raw and the image looked amazing. There is the risk with kine cameras that they have a bunch of small issues or bugs which may take a long time to fix. They are targeted at indie film makers so are never going to get wide market acceptance. Plus it'll take a while before the company is taken seriously. The Mavo Edge is the most promising camera they've made but I'd still have some concerns powering accesories through it. Not sure what that Lens port at the front will be used for, possible just iData or the likes
  2. Absolutely true Phil, the problem often lies with lower quality boards not using polycarbonate or acrylic but a lower grade plastic with a coating, which degrades fairly quickly. They are often also quite thin pieces of plastic so are more likely to snap (as many of mine did). The right material should be no more than £5 raw, getting them engraved and painted is what usually costs the money.
  3. Every AC here uses TF90 (Inhibisol Cleaning Solvent) I'd avoid using anything as harsh as acetone or sand paper. That also looks like a fairly low quality board, the acetate might have already broken down making cleaning almost impossible. Pretty common with boards from amazon. I understand it can be tricky to source higher quality boards at a reasonable price point but my board cost me £60 and has lasted 5 years so far and will last another 5 easily. Even if the board breaks the resin sticks will be going strong. Before that I'd go through an amazon board every 4 to 6 months.
  4. I personally find a chest rig more comfortable in general as it spreads the weight and lets me attach a radio quite securely. My rig is one made by arri rental with magnet closing so that also helps when putting something away just after action is called (no loud velcro rip). It doesn't hold as much as most hip pouches so it's less heavy to start with. But these days, I have a belt with just my Hilti and Fatmax. It's nice to have everything on hand at a moments notice as a trainee and as a loader but when focus pulling I really tire of carrying all that and a hand unit around all day. When needed I still will wear a chest rig.
  5. I run my 058w with Hawk woods mini vlocks - getting about 2 hours from the 50wh version with teradek plugged in. I usually have this attached to my HU3 in a run and gun type setup. With the 98wh betteries it does get a bit heavy. I haven't had any issues with v-lock plates outside of really beat up rental cameras so I wouldn't worry about the battery falling off. It's a really positive lock these days. I think a full size Gold mount would be quite a lot to swing from the back of the monitor with a teradek on there as well. If you already have Gold mount and you're on a stand most of the time, maybe a bracket that attaches to a stand to power everything. Then for run and gun, put that on a tac vest or in a bag?
  6. Omnishot make one of those for the HU1&2 http://stores.omnishotsystems.com/f-i-z-battery-adapter-xt/
  7. Case-design.co.uk made that case and they make complete kits for monitors. I'm sure there are other places that do similar cases and mounts but I've only ever used the case design ones
  8. a carefully placed lens support with a rubber foot or strap on a static part of the lens. A cheap support is probably best as they are aimed at this sort of thing. If you have the option, turn the motor torque down to minimise stress on the adaptor. Pair of vice grips on hand just to threaten the lens with 😉
  9. In my experience method one is the preferred and it's how most professional cameras are set up. The second method is useful when working with cameras that don't natively support TC (Sony FS5, Fuji XT3) Most devices can hold time code longer than any single clip so I wouldn't be so worried about drift in a take unless there's a frame rate issue.
  10. Not just sand but sea air. Bag it. Keep caps on lenses as much as possible. Good sealing mattebox (clamp on) with optical flat. Lots of kenair, hand blowers. Small paintbrush to get rid of loose sand that gets in the bag. Silica gel packs in the lens box and camera coffin to reduce humidity. I carry large elastic bands and backpack covers to help close gaps and keep bags tight to the camera. My backpack covers are silver on one side to reduce heat from the sun (works ok in the UK but hotter places may need additional effort to cool the camera). Cover everything not in use. Clean lenses, filters & camera as often as possible, especially before boxing it overnight. There are a few posts about this already so worth checking out. Some people are really used to it and are really minimal, which is fine if you know what is good and bad but if sand is uncommon for you, extra vigilance can't be bad right?
  11. I started with a leica D110 which is small and relatively cheap. Not great range and is hard to see in direct sunlight but it is very fast and good for interiors. Has bluetooth so you can combine it with your phone to build floor plans. I've used a few and most work the same, some are slow to boot up and others you can't turn the beep off. I now run the Hilti PD-E like many 1st AC's I know. Feature rich, optical viewfinder, great range in sunlight. The laser isn't that easy to see in bright sunlight without using the viewfinder but it does get readings.
  12. The main one used is 35mm film cores from motion picture film. Pretty standard practice. For spike tape 16mm cores work well or empty sellotape cores. I've also seen some people use PVC pipe cut to size but not sure how that weighs up price wise if you don't already have spare bits lying around.
  13. I appear to have spotted this a little late. Think I was having a lazy Sunday then too. Hope it worked out?
  14. No film set in the UK gets started without a visit to the NAAFI Canteen
  15. The geometry looks a bit like it has vice grip esc elements. Quick locking and release catch? Hard to tell from those images. In my opinion it would need to have at least the option of a junior spigot on it to be useful.
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