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Mark Dunn

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Everything posted by Mark Dunn

  1. Mark Dunn
    Yes, always, except for special loads for the Aaton Minima. 100' spools can be loaded in daylight. The first few feet of film protect the rest from fogging.
  2. Mark Dunn
    With a 100' spool you can check the loading in daylight. You might even get an outdated roll for next to nothing. Just make sure it's a sealed can.
  3. Mark Dunn
    Well I have just looked at my K3 and photographs of the Kinor and I'm now convinced that the Kinor does in fact take b-wind. I think you used double perf for your video. The only alternative left is that the film you used had already been rewound. To be on the safe side you could use double-perf.
  4. Mark Dunn
    The emulsion should be towards the lens. But your rewound roll is fine for test purposes.
  5. Mark Dunn
    Just as long as you appreciate that that is for testing purposes only. You won't usually get film emulsion-out.
  6. Mark Dunn
    That's emulsion-out. Kodak do list some A-winds- I see a couple of 200' on cores in the current list. You could use double-perf but it would probably limit you to fresh stock. It would say '16N 7605(2994) 2R EIB' on the first can. Likewise EIA for A-wind. The other number are the perforation pitch in mm. (7.605) and inches (,2994). N is the perf type.
  7. Mark Dunn
    That's emulsion-out. A-winds are indeed lab stock. You could use double-perf but it would probably limit you to fresh stock.
  8. Mark Dunn
    That diagram was in the link I posted. It's b-wind. EIB means 'emulsion-in, b-wind'. Camera film always has the emulsion in, it's a matter of which side the perfs are. Well then, your magazine needs double-perf or a-wind film. The sprocket is on the opposite side from normal. So if you use single-perf you'll have to rewind. Out of interest, what camera is it?
  9. Mark Dunn
    Can you post a picture of the film on the core, showing how the film comes off the roll? Here is a diagram showing the difference between a- and b-wind. It's possible you have a-wind as it is available for special purposes, but I think it would be marked on the can. http://www.nfsa.gov.au/preservation/glossary/a-wind
  10. Mark Dunn
    Are you using a short end to practice with? If so, from what I can see of it in your pic, I think it has been rewound so that the perfs are now on the wrong side, Perhaps it has already been run once as a test. You will not come across this with fresh film. Strip it off the core, put the head end onto the core and rewind it. The perfs will then be correct. You have what is called an A-wind at the moment, Cameras need a B-wind. A-wind is for print film and, I believe the Aaton minima camera and no other.
  11. Mark Dunn
    I think you may have the film the wrong way round in the magazine. Turn the roll over. Are you sure you're not trying to load from the wrong side of the mag? Could you post a picture of the entire mag, with the film placed as you have it now?
  12. Mark Dunn
    You would need to buy and load a magazine. It's not impossible, but a bit complicated for a first camera. The other one takes film on an ordinary spool. They are both clockwork. bear in mind these are very old cameras without reflex viewfinders or zoom lenses Usable but limited.
  13. Mark Dunn
    At 24fps, super-8 runs at 20ft/min whereas 16mm runs at 36ft/min. So super-8 is usually cheaper per minute. The stock you found on ebay isn't fresh stock, it's ten years out of date and isn't a camera film; it's for filming CRT screens in black and white . Fresh colour 16mm. camera film is not as cheap as that, more like $150/400ft.
  14. Mark Dunn
    You're right, that is a different stock and a different process. Not very different, but needing extra baths and so a different setup.
  15. Mark Dunn
    The mag film was all on 'rock and roll' machines. So you could go back and forth and drop changes in as required. Watching a good BBC dubbing mixer at work (better still, sitting next to him as dubbing editor on tracks you'd laid yourself) was like watching God do a sunset. He made students look (well, sound) like professionals.
  16. Mark Dunn
    3:1 is really tight for coverage. 6:1 is doable.
  17. Mark Dunn
    I did try it once but got lost and went back to the pic-sync. it just seemed a lot easier to mark up but each to his own. OP, your sync sound is transferred to mag film along with all the other tracks and the dubbing theatre runs them all in interlock with picture. One imagines the firms mentioned wearlier would be able to do it. I got the Steenbeck and the pic-sync a few years ago but the dubbers were still too expensive. They've probably all bee scrapped by now, I haven't had an ebay alert for a long time. One German company still makes them, or at least lists them.
  18. Mark Dunn
    It's just repackaged Agfa brand b/w neg made by Adox. Standard b/w neg process, nothing special.
  19. Mark Dunn
    If I could buy Tri-X at anything near the sterling equivalent of $13.50 I might make some films again. It's double that here.
  20. Mark Dunn
    Then how do you sync up rushes on a Steenbeck?
  21. Mark Dunn
    I wouldn't know. But you have to ask if £200 is enough for a copy of something which is £700 used.
  22. Mark Dunn
    I don't see how you can sync up on a flatbed, let alone easily maintain sync when cutting sepmag. You need a pic-sync for that. A flatbed is really for reviewing.
  23. Mark Dunn
    Chinese gear is all very well but expecting it to conform to a specification is a tall order. It may be poorly made and wear out very quickly. If you're not going to use it heavily every day it may be OK but a known brand second-hand might be better. Too much Chinese merchandise is just very shoddy. That said, I would probably buy it myself. But I'd read some reviews first. You can't take it back.
  24. Mark Dunn
    The cans will be opaque to microwaves but they should spark nicely. No harm putting them at a sunny window though, just don't cook them. Shouldn't be a problem in January. Wouldn't be here, anyway.
  25. Mark Dunn
    As long as it's in the original packing, just let it defrost for a day. If it's been in a case, separate the cans. Just imagine you're defrosting a turkey of the same size, about 10lb. Then, assuming it's all going to be usedin a few months, keep it somewhere cool and dry. Otherwise, put it back in the freezer.
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