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Showing results for tags '16mm'.
Found 404 results
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I have some questions regarding at home Spiral Tank processing. I have been mixing 2 litres of chemistry for 100' rolls of color reversal(ORWO/Svema & Kodak E-6) and, just recently, color negative(ECN-2) 16mm film. After running the first devloper, the solution is sometimes black and seems to effect the image of the bottom 50' layer of film (dark and muddy). Should I only run 50' at a time at the top spiral? Should agitation be constant to mix chemistry, or maybe try to filter the developer before running the other 50'? You advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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I recently received a Rex 5 for a shoot. I have my own h16 reflex and have had no problems loading it. The rex5, however, doesn't seem to want to take the film maybe I'm doing something wrong? Need some help ASAP as my shoot is in a week. Cheers The spool seems to just jam and not thread the film through unless I add a bit of pressure onto the loop formers do I perhaps need to adjust them? If so how would I do this?
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For all the editors who are hiding out in this forum :ph34r: ....I was wondering if film is actually cheaper to once you got to post than video. Specifically, can you outline the difference in workflow between a Super16mm workflow vs shooting in 4k(or even 2k) and finishing on the accepted digital projection format(or 35mm)? My guess is that film would come out a bit cheaper and easier to manage for the beginner. Quite counter-intuitive I know, but digitial non-linear editing appears to be a black hole which swallows all of your budget.$10K! I'm betting that a 10:1 shooting ratio on Super16, comes out cheaper than a shoot-it-'til-people-threaten-to-leave:1 shooting ratio on video. Can anyone comment on this?
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Hey guys, I'm looking to buy some original Kodak A-wind film for my A Minima. Alternatively I would also buy the plastic spools which came with the film, I'd need 4 of them.
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Hello, It seems I can't attach my 400ft mag bolex motor to the mag. Position is correct (with the motor cable pointing to the mag) but even pressing strongly the motor remains unlocked and I am not able to turn clockwise. Are there two versions of motors or some part is missing from mine? I attach pictures of both. Marcos
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Selling a Arri 416 Plus. Here is a list of what is included. Please email me for pictures and more information on pricing. evancmwest@gmail.com - 416 Plus Body w/ PAL IVS - 3x 416 400' mags w/ covers - body cover - Extended magnifying eyepiece - 19mm baseplate - euro quick release plate - left side rod holder - covers for eyepiece and ivs - 416 shutter tool - 1x body case - 1x mag case
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I know this is going to sound dumb, but I have an Eclair NPR camera and I cannot find the serial number on it. I removed the motor, I looked all over the place and I couldn't find it. This specific unit was modified by Les Bosher, so they may have removed the plate or something. They changed the tourret and maybe the serial number was there. I want to send the camera to service and it would be nice to know what the serial number is so I can have more info about the camera. Thanks
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https://danieldteolijrarchivalcollection.wordpress.com/2018/08/09/16mm-film-clip/ Used to keep film from unraveling.
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Interested to add an Angenieux 50mm 1.5 S5 or Kodak Ekton 50mm 1.5 lens to my equipment. Would anyone have a nice copy offering for sales or know where I can get one? Thanks and Best regards, Teddy -
Im am curious to gather some opinions. I plan on shooting a short in the near future on 16mm. Naturally my choice of stocks are limited to Kodak, and for production purposes 250D would be my best option. Now, really hate doing color correction and DI. I dont like doing it myself, and I dont want to pay to get a colorist to do it for me. I am wondering, how accurate are the colors of 250D, raw out of the stock? What sort of work would I have to do in post to make them accurate. Are there options for me in filtration to normalize the stock? My thought process is, that I want the stock to have an accurate color baseline for me to modify to fit my story. I am looking for a warm, medium contrast, and slightly diffused look. Something in between George Washington (2000) and The Long Goodbye (1973). For this, my idea of was to shoot with some TLS Rehoused Super Baltars, and apply a Tiffen Warm Black Pro-Mist 1/4. What do you think?
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Originally posted in FILM STOCKS Im am curious to gather some opinions. I plan on shooting a short in the near future on 16mm. Naturally my choice of stocks are limited to Kodak, and for production purposes 250D would be my best option. Now, really hate doing color correction and DI. I dont like doing it myself, and I dont want to pay to get a colorist to do it for me. I am wondering, how accurate are the colors of 250D, raw out of the stock? What sort of work would I have to do in post to make them accurate. Are there options for me in filtration to normalize the stock? My thought process is, that I want the stock to have an accurate color baseline for me to modify to fit my story. I am looking for a warm, medium contrast, and slightly diffused look. Something in between George Washington (2000) and The Long Goodbye (1973). For this, my idea of was to shoot with some TLS Rehoused Super Baltars, and apply a Tiffen Warm Black Pro-Mist 1/4. What do you think
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Zeiss Biotar 35mm f2 (Arri Standard Mount + PL Adapter) Zeiss Biotar 35mm f2 in Arriflex Standard Mount, plus PL adapter made by c7adapters.com. The adapter doesn't fit the Arri Amira/Alexa Mini PL Mount! Glass without scratches or fungus. Some dust particles inside. Smooth Aperture and focus rings. Arri Standard Mount + PL Adapter (PL Adapter doesn't fit Alexa MINI/Amira) Covers Super35mm film and sensors Price: 756$ Ebay Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/173381486646?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649 Angenieux 12-120mm f2.2 - Cameflex Mount Glass is clean without scratches, haze or fungus. Focus, aperture and zoom rings run smooth. Slight wear on the body. Cameflex Mount Covers 16mm sensor. It also covers Super 16mm sensors, but it starts vignetting when focusing closer than 8 meters Price: 413$ Ebay link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/173381492080?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649 Samyang 800mm f8 - PL Mount Glass has no scretches, haze or fungus. The body has some wear. The lens has been professionally modified in order to be usable on PL Cameras. PL Mount Covers Super 35mm film and Sensors Price: 282$ Ebay link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Samyang-DX-Tele-Lens-800mm-f8-PL-Mount/173381496210 All lenses are located in Zürich, Swizterland. For any question feel free to email me at vanja.tognola (at) gmail (dot) com . To see more pictures, check the ebay link or ask me directly! I wish you all a wonderful day Vanja -
Looking for a 2 perf Arricam LT if anyone has one for sale. I have a 416 Plus that I could trade also. All the best, Evan
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Hey guys! Looking to buy a standard 16mm or Super 16 kit. With or without lens. Budget of around $5k Shoot me a PM if you have anything available.
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Hello, I am looking to sell the following items. I am willing to possibly split into different package prices, depending on need. I am looking for 2600 for everything below. Everything is in excellent condition. Bmmcc original price $995.00 Asking $750.00 https://bhpho.to/2y8CVWf Rawlite olpf - orig. price $350.00 asking $250.00 http://rawlite.com/ Bmpcc speedbooster ef Original price - $649.00 Asking - $475.00 https://bhpho.to/2nh2Rst One little remote lite Original price - $189.00 Asking - $125.00 https://amzn.to/2JNnNPh Smallrig Bmmcc cage Original Price - $79.00 Asking - $50.00 https://bit.ly/2l9SvaX Shijan angle hdmi clamp Original price - $30.00 Asking - $20.00 https://bit.ly/2JEDTyL NPF bridge Starving Artist Original price - $29.00 Asking - $20.00 https://bit.ly/2l9DJ3C 2 x Sandisk 128GB card Original price - $129.90 Asking - $90.00 https://bhpho.to/2iaZlNI 2 x NPF-970 battery Original price - $251.98 Asking - $180.00 https://bhpho.to/2fg0Ho4 NPF battery charger Original price - $34.90 Asking - $25.00 https://amzn.to/2sVxeGe 3 x LP-E6 battery Original price - $192.00 Asking - $140.00 https://bhpho.to/2bjAhOs LC-E6 battery charger Original price - $52.95 Asking - $40.00 https://bhpho.to/2bwFGnu Alphatron EVF Original price - $1,395.00 Asking - $500.00 https://www.filmtools.com/alphatron-...f-035w-3g.html Subtotal Original Price - $4,377.73 Subtotal Asking Price - $2,665.00 -
Nice to be able to use equipment like the One-Man-Crew from Red Rock Micro & my Ultra16 Scoopic MS on a music video shoot this weekend. There are so many great tools out there with the DSLR "revolution" but it's fun to use them with film cameras too. This One-Man-Crew is the original version but I've used it with an SR2 before. I plan to do the upgrade to handle heavier cameras.
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Hello all, I'm in the market for a super 16mm camera package. I've seen an SR3 highspeed at Visual Products but it is slightly over my budget (it's 8500$) Interested in seeing your super 16 cameras if you have one! Thanks -William
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Hey all! As the topic reads... I'm urgently Looking for Kodak EXR 50D 16mm film or maybe Fuji 64D... Ideally in New York, but I could travel or pay for post. Film love to you all! -
I just got my Canon Scoopic 16 back from Bernie at Super16inc and I'm ready to shoot with it. I've really wanted to test the Kodak 500T stock pushed 2 stops to 2000 but expose it at 1600 for a 1/3 overexposure. I'll be shooting downtown Buffalo, NY at night using street lamps and various city lights and really want to see how this performs. I have the original grey model scoopic 16 and from the manual, it says it is F stops not T stops and it's 24fps with 1/64 shutter. I have a sekonic L- 478D-U that I will use for metering. Can anyone give me any tips or let me know if I'm doing something wrong with how I'll be metering and pushing the film? Thanks in advance! -Ryan -
Hi guys! I will sell my favorite from Soviet 16mm movie cameras. Very rare movie camera, with low noise. A beautiful working set with an OPF lens. For the price I want 2000 euros, but I'll listen to your offer!
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Hi all, I'm looking to shoot a short film on 16mm in the near future, and was hoping for some recommendations of cameras to look into. Bearing in mind that I have to consider other aspects of the shoot, including lenses, I'm willing to pay around £1000. Some features I'm looking for are: Consistency in registration - one thing I've learned from watching various tests is that the results of a given film stock can range from professional to unusable depending on the precision of camera movements. Sync sound - I'm not worried about the volume of the camera itself, since I'll most likely dub dialogue after filming, but I was hoping to use a simple field recorder on set to make the dubbing process easier. Obviously this won't work if there is too much frame rate deviation. Ability to hand hold/shoulder mount. Ease of maintenance - considering that I'll be investing quite a bit of time and money into this project, I'd like to have any second hand gear checked over by a technician without too much cost/hassle. So far, the Eclair NPR is looking like the best bet, but I'd appreciate any other suggestions.
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Hi everyone, Upon reading my question most of you will probably be like: "...why?", but hear me out. I'm looking for options to mount a recorder/shotgun-mic combo on a Krasnogorsk 3 camera. For my own experimental documentary work I want to use my K3. I've used it a few times now. Hand-processed the film and am mostly satisfied with the results. I'm interested in using non-sync sound with the images. (Playing a lot with the sounddesign in the edit). For this purpose, the images are digitized. I finish most of my projects in digital. I like the K3 for its simplicity and small size. In terms of sound, I'm interested in the things that occur around the image, where the frame ends so to speak. Also - the things heard right before and after a scene. I'll be recording on my own and that's why I need a quick and easy to use setup. Having to put the camera down to handle a recorder-mic combo like a Zoom H6 would be to slow and I think I'd quickly run into situations where I would have no place to put the camera for the time being. Right now, I'm thinking of creating some sort of cage to mount a small recorder-mic unit like the Zoom F1 on top of the camera. Ideally, I'd be able to mount a rosette grip somewhere as well. The K3's is not making it easy on me though. I need to be able to access both sides in order to wind the camera and change the film, and I need to be able to access the back for the viewfinder. So, there it is! If any of you can think of some DIY solutions to this problem please do share! Or if you know of some very modular cages that might be suited, that would be great as well! Thanks!
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Hey all! Shooting a small music video on S16 soon, and wondering what everyone's thoughts are on the Aaton XTR vs. SR3 vs. 416. What are the advantages and disadvantages of each when compared against eachother? I'm seeing XTR packages are almost half the price of the SR3, and our budget is tiny so I'm trying to see what I'm giving up for the cheaper price.
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please contact me with details. thanks
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<iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/258354917"width="640" height="360" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe> Tyler Burns - "Knock On Wood/Frankenthaler" Shot this 9.5 minute double music video/short film on Kodak 16mm MPF (50D, 250D, 500T) with an Aaton XTR Prod and Zeiss Primes MKI over the course of almost 3 years in Oregon. Development by Fotokem (Burbank, CA) Telecine by Lightpress (Seattle, WA) Love to hear what y'all think. http://aleceagon.com http://instagram.com/aleceagon
