Jean-Louis Seguin

It was killed already once and resurrected but it seems they didn't learn their lesson or they simply don't care.

Today, I contacted Mr. Robert Shanebrook, author of the authoritative "Making Kodak Film" on whether he had any insight into this. He immediately responded with a reply from Diane Carroll-Yacoby, Product Manager / Consumer & Film Division ay Kodak. I reproduce her answer here: "Hello Bob & Jean-Louis: Thanks for your inquiry. We currently manufacture S8 film (internally) in a 1-4 configuration where the 16mm slit is perfed on both edges, then split into 8mm before spooling into the Super8 cartridges. The lengths are much longer than 400’ though. The DS8 products were discontinued because they were low volume sales. I cannot recall a request for this (to offer something like the product noted below) in the past several years – because we actually make this slit/perf (1-4) as part of our normal operation, we “could” consider producing it for an outside customer as a “Special” or Custom” order. Yes, there are required minimums with a guideline of $25K per order (we can be somewhat flexible on this). Note that the cost per foot would be at least 20% higher than the list price of the closest stocked film – so a custom order is costly (for both the customer and Kodak, frankly). There would be added lead time and payment would be required in advance. We would create “one time use” catalog number(s) which would be deactivated after the order was filled. If outside the United States, there could be extra duty and taxes that would be paid by the customer as well. So, it is a bit of an ordeal to execute, but it is doable. I have coordinated a few of these “custom” type orders in my tenure as Product Manager, about the last 7 or 8 years. Thanks again for your interest in Kodak products. Regards, Diane"

The manual says about 31 seconds at 18fps.

Check out this page: https://ian-partridge.com/new_bh_worm.html Lots of information here.

Is your Bolex reflex or non-reflex? There are different lenses for each type of camera.

I can't really see properly what's happening in your video; it's too poorly lit. Compare this camera with yours and see if you can spot any differences. Until you can have the camera looked at by a knowledgeable technician, just continue to do what you're doing: helping it along the way. As long as you get the proper loop size and the loop is stable, that's what's important.

It's not a camera mount. It's a specifically built tele extender attachment for an Angenieux zoom lens. In use, the interchangeable mount of the zoom lens is removed and this would likely fit between the lens and the mount.

Those are fuses. You have three, maybe four. They pull straight out. New ones come with long leads. You have to bend and trim the leads to fit. They are often called picofuses.

From what I remember from my days or repairing these, the take-up spindle itself can develop wear and play over time and cause some wobbling of the spindle and the the flange. New spindle parts might solve the problem. As for using a daylight spool in the mag, film scraping against it is almost unavoidable.

Once you open it up, you'll see what kind of cells are in it. I'd be surprised if they were AA, Bolex never designed a battery pack around AA cells. To minimize soldering, I would suggest you get a ready made 12V pack or two 6V packs. Maybe you could post a picture of the inside of the battery.

I have a few eBay auctions ending today. All 16mm lenses. Cinema Products Ultra T series 12.5mm f/1.1 (T/1.25) in Arriflex bayonet mount Auction number: 392091848241 SOM Berthiot Pan-Cinor 17-85mm f/3.8 in C-mount Auction number: 392091851929 Canon TV zoom lens V10x15 15-150mm F/2.8 in C-mount Auction number: 392091853529 Canon TV zoom V6x16 16.5-95mm F/2 in C-mount Auction number: 392091855730 Angenieux zoom lens 10x15 15-150mm F/2.8 in C-mount Auction number: 392091857397 Angenieux zoom lens type 20x12B 12-240mm F/3.5 (T/4.2) in Arriflex bayonet mount Auction number: 392091858097

The filter thread on the Switar 10mm preset is 38mm with a thread pitch of 0.5mm. aka M38x0.5. I have some lens caps like this. They have the SOM Berthiot logo on them. They are $15 each plus shipping.

I would be curious to find out where you can obtain ECN in DS8. AFAIK no one is offering this in the marketplace.

I can't really tell from your pics but are you sure the adapter is not touching the chrome plated turret spring? This would prevent proper seating. If this is the case, you might be able to grind some material off the inside of the spring to allow the lens to seat all the in.

There is no difference in the pulldown mechanism between the spring wound RX or SB cameras and the electric cameras. I am not sure why the open shutter angle on cameras with variable shutter is narrower than on fixed shutters but it's not related to the pulldown cycle. That being said, If you want a fixed 170º shutter in your SBM, it is possible if you have the right parts. This is something I could do. PM me for details.

For the exposure meter, there are plenty of suppliers. Just google "PX-1 battery". For the power zoom, you can easily replace the two PX-1 cells with a CR123 lithium cell. It fits perfectly.

The recipient of all Lavezzi motion picture stock at the end of 2014 is “Northwest Chicago Film Society” located at: 1635 E. 55th St. Chicago IL 60615 Contact: Julian Antos Cell: 773-850-0141 julian@chicagofilmsociety.org I made a purchase from them in May 2016.

You can forget about the 10-150mm. It is of limited usefulness as it will vignette very badly. The 15-150mm will fully cover super-16 at all focal lengths.

It's made for a Bolex super-8 camera. Might work in front of a 10mm prime.

Re-celling the battery pack should not be too complicated. Of course, you'll need the proper charger. Test the camera first.

Before spending money on power cables and batteries, have you been able to check if the camera is working at all? Doesn't the original battery pack have a connector to fit the camera's power input? If so, remove the dead cells from the battery pack and substitute any 12V DC source to the correct + and - wires. Let us know what you find.

Jaeger connectors are mostly used in the aerospace industry. I have a few brand new connectors in my stock. Believe me they are not cheap! They also need a special tool for assembly and disassembly, which I have. The connector on your camera looks like it has corrosion on the female inputs. It should be replaced. Alternately, you might want to have the power input converted into something more standard like 4-pin XLR. This would require modification to the camera base. Which ever way you want to go, it's going to cost $$$.

Pin 1 is Pin 1 on both plug and socket. They are identified on the connector itself. There is no reversing.

Edward, you have the + and the - reversed. Pin 1 is 0V BLACK and Pin 3 is 7.2V RED Steve has it right.

When you say image: is that the image on the film or the image in the viewfinder?