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Akos Baranya

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Everything posted by Akos Baranya

  1. Falcon eyes has a range of cheap LED mats: Intellytech has foldable LED mats in a similar vein: Both now have RGB versions as well.
  2. Vintage C mount lenses would be an option on the old pocket IMO and they come with their own bag of worries. The new pocket has a larger sensor, not the S16 of its predecessor so they don't play at all. I have an Angenieux 15-150 with the older pocket and while I really like using it, from about 15 to 30 it's a dog of a lens with wierd areas in unexpected places that are blurred. I would advise you to monitor this thread: http://www.bmcuser.com/showthread.php?22425-Soft-edges-with-wide-angle-lenses-on-the-BMP4K as there seems to be some kind of not wholly documented issue with the new pocket and certain lens combinations. The Oly pro zooms have the big bonus of having repeatable manual focusing whereas the panasonic equivalent does not as the focus speed changes based on the speed of the focus ring turning, so that would be a definite pro to watch.
  3. Skypanels use them so you'd be in good company.
  4. The big question is the amperage, at low amperage, you could get away with a lot of stuff, but at higher amps it is more interesting. For instance, some XLR are rated as high as 16 A. Speakons are rated 30A or 40A.
  5. If you have the space and are willing to forgo the convenience of LEDs, I would also recommend getting some fresnel lamps off of ebay, you can build up a set from 350 to 2k without any trouble for peanuts. Avoid "AS ARRI" chinese lamps and go for ARRI, Desisti or Mole Richardson used lights. I have some 2.5K softlights I got on ebay, they can be useful if you have the time to set them up and the space to store them. I really like the dedolight spots but they are pretty expensive, even on the used market. If you are going for LED (and don't want to spring for ARRI), Aputure and Lupoled are two brands that are worthy of attention. Lupo has the highest output 1x1 panel AFAIK and Aputure has a nice COB light (with a bowens mount so you can use all kinds of light shapers) and panels. The bigger of Aputures COB lights has a loud psu, so you may want to stick with the 120D. I've been disappointed in the light output of LED fresnels so far, while the skypanel has nice output, the LC fresnels don't seem to be up to scratch.
  6. Can you tell us about your budget and transport options?
  7. The Sigma ART lenses (cine or not) have a great image quality, I don't think they can be mentioned on the same page as the middling Rokinons - I haven't had experience with the XEENs, but the "normal" cinestyle rokinons are really nothing special.
  8. Very interesting effect, makes it surreal. Reminds me of deep dream images
  9. this might help regarding filter choice. No substitute for seeing/testing for yourself though.
  10. If you don't have money for filters, using stockings over the front or the back of the lens can help: http://coltondavie.com/tests/testing-net-diffusion/
  11. I bought a lot of old fresnel lights and tungsten softlights off ebay, it's doable even in europe Its nice to have a basic light package that you can use, but keep in mind that stands and cstands and flags and floppies and frames all cost money too and there isnt any shiny new LED making the old stands obsolete
  12. Nila has some powerful LED lights, but the ones with a 2kw tungsten equivalency will be over your price. Intellytech as well. I have not worked with either, merely seen the specs. Both are cheaper than ARRI / Mole
  13. I went this route last year, ebayed a bunch of old tungsten fixtures. 1K-5K . Desisti fixtures can be had for much cheaper than arri on ebay. They are useful to have lying around, for projects that don't have rental budgets and so on. One problem with this is that for them to be really useful, you need a full kit of C-stands, flags and so on because rental houses where I am are loath to rent out just a few accessories like that. You also need a couple of sturdy combo stands, but there is nothing wrong with that.
  14. You could rent a Lambda head for this task as well. On a recent job production rented a letus helix (or something similar) for because they needed this effect on a steadicam.
  15. That channel is amazing, I stumbled upon it a while ago and it's a wonderful learning resource.
  16. Be wary with really cheap led bulbs though, some have flicker that is noticeable with your eyes, let alone your camera.
  17. I was under the impression that tungsten is the safest to use with high fps, is this only valid for >1kw lights then? I've been using 2.5k softlights, 1k 2k and 5k fresnels without a problem so far.
  18. Thanks JD, I will look into heavier varieties. In person, so I don't get mixed up.
  19. I ordered 5 meters of unbleached muslin off the internet, and I want to have it sewn up so I can use it easily on my 4x4 frames. I was surprised at how transparent the material actually is, testing it today (with a tungsten 2k fresnel), it seemed like 1 layer barely diffused the beam, 3 seemed to be doing a better job of it. Right now I am contemplating having it done up with double layers, so I can have the 2fold and 4fold effect. How do you folks do it? When you use unbleached muslin, is it merely a single layer? I've attached a pic of the material, though I have to say, it looks less transparent in this picture than it is irl.
  20. Ebay is wonderful for buying old tungsten fixtures, you can routinely score 2k fresnels for 100-200$ or even less. Just look for Mole / Strand / Desisti fresnel lamps. ARRI is usually more expensive, and why spend 3x as much when its a tungsten source anyway? You will be using the same bulb inside it. That said, stay away from "AS ARRI" chinese clones.
  21. I think the answer for your problem in a way would be to have everything exposed properly and then grade it darker. You would still need to light the frame.
  22. They could maybe argue 10:1 equivalency if we are talking daylight color temp, because if you gel a 1K blue, you will get about the same amount of light as a 100W LED. Still misleading.
  23. I have a batch of these LEDs, how hot is yours running? I noticed that it is decidedly less green when running at higher temperatures. (not just me, the spec sheet also has a "Change in CIEx vs. Junction Temperature" graph showing this behaviour) I measured mine with a color meter and it seemed to have a nice TLCI of 96 , the CRI came out to 92, a bit of a disappointment compared to the specs. I'm also interested if anybody has experience with alternative chips. This was the reading I got (the test was with a just turned on chip, no warming allowed, so this is the worst it performs): CCT : 5751 K CRI(Ra) : 92 CQS : 92 Illuminance : 4709 lux Foot Candle : 437,5 fc CIE1931 x : 0,3268 CIE1931 y : 0,3432 CIE1976 u' : 0,2022 CIE1976 v' : 0,4778 λp : 445 nm TLCI(Qa) : 96,3 GAI : 93,1 here are the pics: http://imgur.com/a/SI1XI
  24. A cheaper alternative with high CRI is the aputure M9. 50 bucks, about as big as a screen on an iphone 5, a bit thicker than an iphone 5. should have enough light for a mobile phone scene, you may be able to cheat it into an iphone case or something like that.
  25. I don't disagree with most of the points you bring up, Tyler, but there are use cases where ease of use of the C100/300 compared to the pocket will be an important factor. I'm not saying the pocket isn't a great camera. It is. It's just more of a hassle sometimes. Yeah you can get around it, sure. Yes, it will reward you with a better image. I would still argue that for an owner op who works solo, the canons are more convenient. I feel that while bitrate is important, the mode of compression is also important and Canon and Sony have good 50Mbps codecs whereas the lowest bitrate (proxy) on the pocket isn't usable.
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