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  1. Looking for a well looked after SXU-1 to purchase, I just find the OCU to be too small for my giant bear paws. Shipping to US or AUS. Cheers, Alex
  2. It's been almost a decade since ARRI's last 3-axis lens control became available. The new, state-of the-art "Hi-5" features: Hi-performance: strong radio signal over long distances Hi-versatility: swappable radio modules for different locations Hi-speed: fast and efficient on-set ecosystem Hi-tech: future-proof hardware and software architecture Hi-reliability: robust, weatherproof, long battery life The new ARRI Hi-5 is the most sophisticated hand unit on the market, providing reliable wireless camera and lens control in demanding situations on set. Weatherproof and solidly built, it features an exceptional radio link range and unique, swappable radio modules for different territories and shooting challenges. Replacing ARRI’s previous top-end hand unit, the WCU-4, and representing a significant step forward, the new Hi-5 is central to the fifth-generation ecosystem of ARRI’s Electronic Control System (ECS). Together with a new radio system, new intelligent batteries, smart focus rings, and an iOS app, the Hi-5 modernizes on-set connectivity, simplifying complex tasks for film crews. Various of the new technologies incorporated into the design have patents pending. Typically, the Hi-5 will be in the hands of a focus puller or 1st AC, and ARRI has done everything possible to enhance their comfort and confidence. Proven ergonomics make the Hi-5 a pleasure to hold and operate, while the modern, stylish touchscreen interface, based on a camera GUI, will be instantly and intuitively familiar. Lens file management and software updates are faster and easier with the new ARRI ECS Sync App. Most innovative of all are the swappable radio modules—a feature never before seen in a hand unit. With an often congested 2.4 GHz ISM band and different frequency regulations in different countries, the ability to exchange radio modules is a huge advantage, allowing crews to choose the module that best suits each shooting location. ARRI will release three radio modules in the 900 and 2400 MHz ranges, using direct sequence and frequency-hopping spread spectrum technology to cut through interference. Together, they cover a multitude of shooting situations with a significantly improved, robust and long-range radio link, while ensuring backwards-compatibility with existing camera equipment. As technology evolves, even more modules can be added, making the Hi-5 a future-proof investment, able to accommodate future standards for on-set hardware communications. Reliability of all features and functions was an overriding priority in the Hi-5’s design and construction, with particular attention paid to the ruggedized housing for operating in harsh environmental conditions. Sealed, dustproof, and weatherproof, the hand unit feels unmistakably solid the moment it is picked up, and will keep you shooting even when the elements are against you. Various design elements of the Hi-5 are oriented towards maximizing efficiency. Smart pre-marked focus rings now communicate directly with the Hi-5 hand unit, being instantly recognized and mapped to the lens focus scale. Batteries for the Hi-5 are ARRI products, based on the NP-L interface; they can be hot-swapped without powering the unit down, and their remaining capacity is always precisely displayed on the Hi-5 screen. Meanwhile, a new Tail Slate Mode prevents the user from stopping recording before capturing a tail slate on shots that need it.
  3. Hello, everyone! I recently bought a K3 on ebay and just finished getting my second roll scanned. Unfortunately, a lot of what would have otherwise been some nice footage came out unusable because of a very strange issue. Here are a couple clips that demonstrate the problem: Basically, at the start of a shot, the film will weave in and out of focus (there are always a few frames at the start of a shot that are in perfect focus) but then the film settles in a position where the center of the frame is blurred, while the sides seem to be in focus. I had only noticed this issue in a couple of shots in the past so I wrote it off as a one-off thing, but it was happening a lot with this last roll I shot. From reading this post from 2008 which describes the exact same issue, (only with an Arri 16S) it seems like the pressure plate just isn't holding the film flat enough, and I need to either replace the current pressure plate spring or tighten it. In some other threads, I've also come across people mentioning that they have tightened the pressure plate spring on their K3's, but I'm having a lot of trouble figuring out how to do that. Does anyone here happen to know how I could make that adjustment with my K3? Do I maybe need a new pressure plate in general?
  4. Hi again everyone. I'm trying to recreate this look in the image provided below. Its's only this 1 shot needed. How do you reckon they did this and what lens do you think it was on? (reference image is at 1:26 minute: I have done my own test using my directors viewfinder app (red helium 8k lens on a 32mm Master Prime). Using a DOF calculator I recorded the following info: *NOTE: These results are all factored off an F16 F-stop (results will vary if we have to open up obviously but I hope this gives everyone an idea). · 32mm lens - 14 cm from back of box is where focus will start (this area is OUT of focus) - 51 cm in distance from the red tape measurer to the bottle centre of (this is all IN focus) - 35 cm from bottle to the camera lens is out of focus (35cm is the close focus distance of the lens – and this area is OUT of focus) - ***27cm height will be seen at the back of box – so it is important the height is higher than this so we don’t see the top layer of the box / roof (30cm is acceptable but you can go a bit higher if you want) Do these results look accurate to you? Also im relying on that 51cm to be in clear focus and will have to light this pretty damn brightly to get there. Any thoughts on this. Thanks.
  5. According to AC Magazine April 2020 edition " The Pupil Marks the Focus Spot The next thing to understand about the entrance pupil is that it is at that point — not at the film plane (or sensor plane) — from which focus should be measured. It’s a long-standing practice in cinematography to take focus measurements from the film or sensor plane of the camera. " (read the attachment) Well, the topic seems to be fine and interesting but, the basic question is never raised nor answered - WHY FOCUS SHOULD BE MEASURED FROM ENTRANCE PUPIL? Can some one explain these : 1) Do all of the points of light from the scene converge to a single point at the entrance pupil and then expand back out to the image plane ? 2) What role does exit pupil play in measuring focus ? 3) Can Iris be located not at aperture stop ? 4) How is DoF related to entrance & exit pupil ? And please provide a reference website or material to understand these technical concepts clearly. Thanks, Ram Nanda.
  6. According to AC Magazine April 2020 edition " The Pupil Marks the Focus Spot The next thing to understand about the entrance pupil is that it is at that point — not at the film plane (or sensor plane) — from which focus should be measured. It’s a long-standing practice in cinematography to take focus measurements from the film or sensor plane of the camera. " (read the attachment) Well, the topic seems to be fine and interesting but, the basic question is never raised nor answered - WHY FOCUS SHOULD BE MEASURED FROM ENTRANCE PUPIL? Can some one explain these : 1) Do all of the points of light from the scene converge to a single point at the entrance pupil and then expand back out to the image plane ? 2) What role does exit pupil play in measuring focus ? 3) Can Iris be located not at aperture stop ? 4) How is DoF related to entrance & exit pupil ? And please provide a reference website or material to understand these technical concepts clearly. Thanks, Ram Nanda.
  7. Hey I'm selling my Digital Bartech. It was serviced last year and haven't used it since. Looking to get $2300 for everything, but open to offers. Possibly interested in selling Heden Motor separately. If your in Los Angeles I'm available to show you item in person. Package includes:BFD Hand UnitBartech Receiver V2Heden Motor (m26ve) w/ multiple gears2x motor cables3x D-tap power cables2x 2-pin lemo power cables6x Aluminum Marking DiscsPortabrace Hardcase thanks
  8. For Sale: Cine RT Focus Bug standard Kit without high bright display RRP USD $8500 Price: USD $7250 This is the newest, and best version of a cinetape like system but with better range, capabilities like distance lock-out, the ability to place tracking bugs on actors and around locations and many more amazing features. All Items are in excellent condition. This has been my personal kit. Includes: 1x CineRT Ranger/Tracker Handset 1x CineRT Ultrasonic Ranger/Tracker Base unit 2x Cine RT Ultrasonic Tracking bug with charge cables. (Some labelling has come off the back of the bugs as I have used double sided tape to stick them to things) 1x 2' 2pin-2pin power (straight to right angle) 1x 3' 2pin-2pin power (straight to right angle) 1x 30" Cinert Serial Cable ( for Arri LCS integration) Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/rrNrT4yrbH1hb9WEA Based in Australia but happy to ship.
  9. Hello, I have a music video shoot coming up soon, and this is my first experience using a cine lens. We are using a gimbal system, renting an A7sii and a Xeen 50mm cine lens. What we forgot is that cinema lenses are manual only, so from what I found online, does that mean no electronic wireless focus systems will work for example the Aputure DEC wireless adopter? We don't have the budget to afford the standard $1k to $2k remote motor wireless follow focus systems. Is everything I've said so far actually correct and are we really stuck with no way to keep our shots in focus? Thanks
  10. For sale Preston Cables Lot of 8 complete and 3 for parts. In LA, buyer pays shipping. Sold as is. $280.00 for all
  11. Hello guys! I've got a question for you that could sound stupid but I am thinking about it for a couple of days. I've got a nizo pro and that has been used by me only one time, just to test if it's in order. Everything seems to be ok, but I forget to try the macro setting. Now I have to shoot some macro scenes with this camera and I am looking for suggestions on how to get the frame perfectly in focus. The manual says to always use the longest focal leght to get the focus, (use the telephoto setting for focusing. To focus (...) set the focal lenght to 80mm). Now my question is, how can I use the tele for focusing if I need to use the macro? Do I simply have to switch in macro on the lens barrel, set the focusing range to the closest value (i.g. 90cm) and use the zoom untill the vertical lines of the subjects appear unbroken in the viewfinder? Doing so do I get the frame in focus? Can someone suggest me a workflow for focusing in macro mode? thank you very much!!! Mario
  12. Does anyone know if Zone Plate has ever been used in cinematography? I understand that, quite like pinhole, it can require long exposure times, however, that doesn't rule out high speed film or frame-by-frame/stop motion/landscapes. I'd be curious to know if it has been done or is being done and how the obvious challenges were overcome.
  13. This SmallHD 702 Bright is brand new and in the box. The box has never been opened. As such the monitor is still covered under SmallHD's warranty. The 702 Bright is an incredibly bright, on camera, monitor that allows camera operators or 1st ACs to see the screen in daylight without a sun-hood. Which if you've ever tried pulling focus off of a Shogun, or some such monitor/recorder that has a really low nit count, in the daylight it's a disaster. The 702 has really convenient features that make life on set a lot easier. In addition to the brightness the 702 natively takes Sony BP style batteries as well as Canon LP-E6 batteries. The 702 is also able to receive SDI and put out through HDMI, or vice versa, if you ever had that need. In a lot of ways it's a really versatile monitor that's worth taking a look at. The highlights of this monitor are as follows. Specs:*7" Daylight Viewable 1080p Display *1000 cd/m² Brightness *1000:1 Contrast; 179° Viewing angle *HD-SDI and HDMI Inputs and Outputs *Dual L-Series and LP-E6 Battery Support
  14. I have one ( a bit odd) quastion ... Could a -best of the bests- TELEVISION cameraman, experienced in major LIVE broadcasting football matches (and also in series, shows etc) work for FIRST TIME as A Focus Puller on an Arri Alexa Mini ?? Thanks for your thought
  15. Hey everyone! I'm selling my Bartech BFD because I've had a slight career shift and my new work doesn't need the beefier setup of the BFD and M-One Motor. Everything is in used condition, but works great. I have lots of detailed photos and I'm happy to take specific photo requests if you have something you want to see in detail before buying. I'm including everything pictured (except the table or cyc wall). There's a lot in this kit, but I'll break it down as best as I can. Frankly, there's a few cables that came with the BFD when I bought it that I'd be unable to identify properly, but I've included the detailed pictures of all cables and connectors. Here's what's in the kit: Foam-Fitted Handheld Case An ORIGINAL printout, analog paper Manual with OEM staple. Bartech BFD Wireless Transmitter - Handheld Focus Puller (S/N T1.0154) Spare Markers for BFD BFD Hardwire Cable. 25' Cable connecting the Transmitter to the Receiver in case of signal loss or faulty connection. Works great on jibs or cranes. (Reference: Image B) Bartech BFD Wireless Receiver (S/N R1.0154) Horizontal and Vertical Mounts (15mm and 19mm) New Antenna (Not pictured; I lost the original plastic antenna cover, but ordered an entirely new OEM replacement antenna.) BFD Receiver Gimbal Mount - Hard-wire Remote Control for use on a Steadicam, Movi or Ronin. (Reference: Image A) M-One Motor (S/N M-1.0010) Six gears with varying pitches for different size lenses: 0.8m - 32P (2x), 0.5m, 48P, 0.4m - 64P, and 0.6m 15mm, 17mm and 19mm rod adapters for proper mounting fit Misc Hardware for Receiver Mount and replacement screws Additional Cable Assortment 3-Pin male to 3-Pin male LEMO long hardwire power extension cable (Looks to be about 10-15 feet long. I can confirm if you'd prefer, just let me know!) (Reference: Image H) 5-Pin male to 5-Pin male LEMO connector cable from receiver to motor (Reference: Image D) 3-Pin male to 2-Pin male LEMO to power receiver from Steadicam Zephyr (and others with similar 3-Pin connector) (Reference: Image I) Anton Bauer D-Tap male to 2-pin LEMO male to power the receiver from an Anton Bauer battery or V-Mount adapter with proper D-Tap connector. (Reference: Image G) 12V 4-Pin XLR male to 2-pin LEMO male presumably powering the receiver off of beefier film cameras or battery connectors (Reference: Image E) Unidentified 2-pin male LEMO to a fun, half 2-pin male, half 2-pin female connector that I've never seen before or needed to work with. If you recognize it, you get bonus points. (Reference: Image F) I think this last one is an old Panavision connector, if memory serves. But, I'm really not certain on this one either. It's a half 1-pin male, half 1-pin female LEMO connector and a fat 11-pin male connector on the other end. (Reference: Image C) Price: $3750 USD FREE SHIPPING to USA. Will provide quote for international Shipping. Payment via Paypal for Shipping or cash for Local Pickup: Boston area) Pictures attached:
  16. Hi Everyone! I am selling my Preston FIZ3 3 channel remote focus kit. I have owned this for the past couple of years. And it has always been used only by myself, It has never been dry hired. It has worked flawlessly through that time and I have never had an issue with this reliable kit. I purchased this as a Preston FIZ II Kit, but upgraded it to the FIZ3 handset and also sent the MDR back to PCS to get the Blue dot G4 upgrade and also to be serviced. (I can provide the receipt if needed) The Handset is 1 1/2 years old and also the Heden M21VE-L motor is only 2 years old as well. All the other equipment is a bit older but still works perfectly, as I have always taken great care of this kit. Im Looking for $17,000 USD but I am also open to reasonable offers. In the Kit for sale Handset 1x FI+Z 3 Handset (#2803) 5x Premarked Disks (A,B,C,D,E in Imperial) 6x Blank Disks Microforce Digital 2 1x Microforce Digital 2 (serial #D25274) 1x Handset to MF Bracket Motors 1x Preston DM1 (#1791) 1x Preston DM2 (#2483) 1x Heden M21VE-L (#M21VE-3849) 5x Heden Gears 0.4,0.5,0.6,0.8,0.8 wide 7x Preston Gears 1x0.4 2x0.5 2x0.6 2x0.8 Misc screws for gears etc MDR 1x MDR-2 G4 Bluedot with 4pin serial port (#1192) 1x MDR-2 Cheese plate (Kar Wai Ng) Cables 4x Motor Cables (3x R/A to R/A 1x R/A to Straight) 1x Cinetape Interface Cable 2x Microforce to Handset Cables 1x D-Tap Power 2x R/S 3pin Power cables 3x R/S 3pin Camera Run Cables 1x Moviecam Camera Run Cable 1x Panavision Camera Run Cable 1x Serial to USB cable Brackets 2x 19mm Hill Brackets 2x 15mm Hill Brackets 2x 5/8' Hill Brackets 4x Hill D-clamp Bracket slider 4x Hill/Preston motor Rosetts 2x 15mm/19mm Colett 3x 5/8"/19mm Colett 2x 15mm/19mm Preston Dogbones Batteries 5x Sony NP-50 Batteries 1x Watson Two Bay Charger 1x Single Bay Charger Case 1x Nanuk 945 Black Hardcase Fstop 1x PLC fstop wireless WIFI 1x D-tap Power Cable 1x Panavision Power Cable Im also throwing in the F-stop wireless iris as well as I have not used it and it came with the original kit. I believe you can download the 'wireless iris' app and control a motor through your phone. This kit is located in New Zealand. I don't mind shipping it to anywhere in the world. Purchaser pays for shipping. Payment through Paypal is best. I also have higher res photo files if needed, I can email them to you. If you have any questions or would like to get hold of me please contact me through email at Many thanks, David Steel
  17. Cinetape is one of those tools that is very helpful for focus pullers, but it's very expensive. Would anyone be interested in an affordable Cinetape solution? I'm curious to know because I'm developing one that measures FT-in or M-cm, will be using a 5v rechargeable battery, LCD Display, and mounting options. Future upgrades would integrate with your phone via App, Bluetooth, and VR headset. The idea is to also make it as accurate as possible, we all know ultrasonic sensors have their issues but for those who use Cinetape and know of its value I'm curious to know if you'd be interested in a more affordable option that doesn't compromise quality and accuracy? Let me know in the comments below, thanks.
  18. so my issue is my Zeiss 8mm lens isn't focusing at all. Not clear, not sharp-- moving the focus ring does nothing at all. The focus ring moves smoothly and stops at both ends but nothing changes. Unfortunate since I was hoping to use it for a big project this week. Details: Lens: Zeiss 8mm with Arri standard mount Camera: Eclair NPR adapter: Calkovsky arri to c mount adapter The shop where I bought the lens is convinced it's the adapter, and while I still have a lot to learn about these things, it still seems like moving the focus ring should do something. Is this incorrect? At this point I'd be encouraged if adjusting the focus made it worse, just so I'd know something is happening. Calkovsky has been working with me trying to figure this out but we haven't got it figured out yet. He mentioned it's possible I might need a tiny tab to lock it in position. I have been able to at least get a clear image in the viewfinder if I hold the lens myself up to the camera maybe within a few millimeters of the mirror but that image does not change if the focus is set to infinity or to 12 inches. No changes at all. Any thoughts?
  19. I am selling my Preston Cinema FI+Z remote lens control system kit. The kit is in like new condition and it has been used on one project only. I am the original owner of the kit. Here are the actual pictures of the items and detailed list what comes in the kit: Asking $27,900 located in Los Angeles Please feel free to contact me if you have any questions or for more pictures at workprintmedia@gmail.com Thank you Gevorg Sarkisian workprintmedia@gmail.com Kit included Items list: 1x Handset HU3 1x MDR-3 1x Micro Force Digital 2 1x PAM-U-15mm Bracket Kit for DM-1X 2x DM-1X Digital Motors 1x DM-2 Digital Motor 1x M/F HU3 Bracket 2x Power 12V 4Pin XLR-2P Lemo Cable 2x Arri 24V PWR/Stop Start Cable 2x Camera EPIC Cable 2x Main Command Cable 2x Cinetape-MDR-3 Cable 3x Motor Cale 90 degree -straight 3x Motor Cable 90 degree-90 degree 1x Digital M/F HU3 Cable 8" 1x Digital M/F HU3 Cable 8' 4x Marking rings 2x Batteries 1x Battery charger 1x Innerspace FI+Z MKIII case
  20. Hey, Im a filmmaking student and one of my assignments is to 'Get familiar with the depth of field charts for the Sony F55' Is there a simple video or explanation into depth of field charts and the calculations. Especially what circle of confusion is what what it does and why. Ive had people try and explain it but I can't grasp it it all sounds foreign to me when random numbers are involved. Many thanks. Ella
  21. The focus puller workout First of all, I would like to say that is a camera system, like all the Arri models both digital and 35mm, with which the assistant cameraman feels very comfortable, since is easy to use, solid and reliable even in the most extreme shooting situation (here I have to be honest and tell that I din't work with it in very extreme conditions, but I know people that did and they got no trouble at all) As I was saying, it is often considered the "Scarlet" of Arri, or his solution for low budget productions. And even if I'm not going to say that the Amira is as good as... More information here.
  22. I finally own a decent follow focus. It's a used Zacuto Z-focus. Works great, smooth turn, zero play. I'm using it together with a Sigma 18-35 f1.8, with a this ultra cheap focus ring: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Adjustable-Follow-Lenses-diameter/dp/B008PP3LY4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1486941772&sr=8-2&keywords=neewer+focus+ring The Sigma lens itself has a buttery smooth focus turn, and like I said, the Z-focus is basically silk when it's just spinning by itself. But the moment the Z-focus is actually put to use turning the Sigma lens, it takes a little more effort to turn than I feel it should, and there are some subtle vibrations in the movement. Adds up to a less-than-stellar focusing experience. I had a similar problem when I first got the Sigma and the Z-focus. I'd bought a gear ring that was specially fitted to the Sigma, and it proved totally unusable--vibrations galore. Is this a normal problem with cheap, crappy focus rings? I can't find anyone else who describes experiencing this issue quite like I have. Help!
  23. Angenieux 70-210 F3.5 Zoom Lens - Leica R Adapted to Canon - UV Filter - Focus Rings The F3.5 is consistent throughout zoom range. Also has good short focus macro. Manual Iris/Focus/Zoom but still very lightweight for this range. Smooth rings and good amount of focus/zoom travel vs most DSLR Lenses. Love the look, resolves nicely. Don't know of any other zoom that compares without going PL or big $$ for manual control. $1000 OBO PM or Email mbentgroup + gmail
  24. 3x Preston DM1 Motors 1x PAM Jerry Hill Bracket 1x Small Preston Bracket 1x Large Preston Bracket Good condition, full working order. 1 Motor has some visible wear and tear marks. email: forrest.rich@gmail.com Local pick up available in LA. Price: $5,000
  25. Hi All, I'm currently DOP for a social realism graduation film, a bit naive and a bit nervous because my approach is to experiment and shoot with the Sony F55 and 16mm Zeiss Distagon prime lenses throughout the whole of the short film. This means I have to operate with 2x crop, which isn't much of an issue because I have all the necessary primes and zoom lens to cover the shots needed, but from the camera test footage the lenses appear a bit too soft. I was intending to get a soft look, but I didn't realise how soft they would actually be. I'm not too sure if the lenses need calibrating in anyway, but I won't jump to conclusions because my knowledge doesn't go that far, however they do seem to perform slightly better in low light. My film is being filmed out on the majority of Day Exteriors, so I'm just wondering if it's worth sticking to my guns, or whether it might be best to resort to other lenses. I also have the option of using the Zeiss CP.2 prime lenses, and I'm now thinking this could be my best choice. I'm a fan of the work by Stuart Bentley on This is England 90' and I've read up and come to understand that he operated with the Arri Amira, Arri Alura zoom lenses and the vintage Canon K35 primes. I'm just wondering if anyone has any useful advice on how I could achieve a similar look to this work. I'm looking a visual references such as: Tyrannosaur (2011) Dop: Erik Wilson This is England 90' (2015) Dop: Stuart Bentley Fish Tank (2009) Dop: Robbie Ryan (The images shown in this post currently don't have a colour grade applied, this is my next move as of tomorrow) If the images don't seem to appear, check out this shareable link to a google drive file of the test: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B67phC0DGkQYUmJEY1FtN3RHOFk Fire away at any questions if I've missed anything, or if it doesn't quite make sense. Any help would be massively appreciated! Thanks, Matt
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