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Showing results for tags 'MOTOR'.
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Hi! I recently acquired a Eclair Cameflex 35mm camera. It came with a motor but unfortunately it is a 3 phase motor. I've looked on eBay but no luck there. Anyone selling a motor that is capable of 24/25 fps or can direct me in the right direction? Kind regards.
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- cameflex
- cameflex motor
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Hello everyone! I own a bolex h16 sbm and am looking to buy a motor for it but finding it hard to find. Any recommendations on which types are better / where I can source one from? I'm also thinking about converting to S16. Does anybody know a trusted person to do this? Thank you!
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Hey there ? my name is Janosch Simon i still love 3D and have my 3D rig nearly running ? the lenses i chose for the start were Olympus 14-42 EZ. i use them with 2 Blackmagic Micro Cinema Cameras side by side. Im fazinated by the idea of zooming while filming. That would be possible with the expansion port of the BMMCC but the quality of the lens and the lens mechanics is very bad ? then i saw that DZO makes some MFT cine zooms and now im looking or searching for a synchronoized focus and motor controler. Are you guys aware of any? i used google and searched here but perhabs i didnt use the right words ? thx and take care Janosch Simon
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I'm selling 2 Arri CLM-2 lens motors. Both are in used condition but perfectly functional. I'm asking €1000 excl. shipping. I'm located in Belgium.
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Hey I'm selling my Digital Bartech. It was serviced last year and haven't used it since. Looking to get $2300 for everything, but open to offers. Possibly interested in selling Heden Motor separately. If your in Los Angeles I'm available to show you item in person. Package includes:BFD Hand UnitBartech Receiver V2Heden Motor (m26ve) w/ multiple gears2x motor cables3x D-tap power cables2x 2-pin lemo power cables6x Aluminum Marking DiscsPortabrace Hardcase thanks
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I became interested in microcontrollers a while ago and I am considering a DIY sync sound motor for my Kinor 2m camera. I also have other cameras which could use a stable speed motor (for example my 35mm Soyuz-US3N camera and the rheostat motored Konvas 1KCP. This is because there is no available motors of any kind for Soyuz and the rheostat Konvas never had any sync motors made originally) . I started with the 16mm Kinor motor last month and I'm refining the analog control electronics and fine tuning the code now. I was just thinking, is there lots of people out there who could use a customisable sync sound motor on their camera and if so, which exact camera models would be the most in demand? If there seems to be some common interests then I could take them into account when developing my own motor project and it might be easy to make custom solutions for other persons cameras as well. --------- What would be the absolutely mandatory specifications for this type of motor? I am aiming for +/- 10rpm accuracy at the moment but we will see how accurate the diy solution will be when it is fine tuned for the specific motor and camera model. That 10rpm accuracy would be about 1 frame drift for every 2.5 minutes of footage shot which should be usable for sync sound uses in indie films which have relatively short takes (a minute per take for example). My current design for the Kinor16 motor will have 6 different preset speeds and it uses the original pilot tone generator just like the Olex crystal sync modification does though my design is not as sophisticated or accurate (one gets what one pays for :) the Olex motor is better and my design is cheaper). - what type of camera and "wild" motor would most urgently need a digital speed stabilising system like this one? - how accurate the speed needs to be. how much it can drift to be usable? I am talking about minimum specs which would enable practical use of the system, NOT about how much would be nice to have :) - how much it can cost, in case there seems to be so much demand that it would be doable to do for example a dozen or so of these? - how much the end user can assemble by themselves? is a parts kit with pre drilled circuit board enough (needs soldering and a little bit of tuning) or only fully assembled board would do? - it is very clear from beginning that this type of product needs to be user installed to be a viable option. It would not be economical to ship cameras and motors back and forth between continents, that would ruin the whole point of this type of motor solution - what kind of inputs for the encoder which is attached to the motor. My current design uses the pilot tone generator signal coming from the Kinor motor but for other cameras I will use either a encoder disc or magnetic sensors for rpm feedback.
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Hey everyone, I recently purchased an Eclair NPR off of eBay and I've got some questions about it. I'm trying to find a battery solution for it. I've read through other posts and I see that there are a lot of different routes I could go. So far I've been looking at this: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1048193-REG/bescor_fp_12vatm_12v_lithium_ion_battery.html as well as this: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/126161-REG/Cool_Lux_BC3054_BC_3054_Battery_Belt_LCE.html. I would love to hear everyones thoughts on these! My second question is about a piece of gear that came with the camera. It was in a pouch labeled "Video Tap" and when I opened it up the only thing in there was this weird viewfinder. I attached some pictures of it. There's no markings or writing on it that tell me what it is or what company it is. If anyone knows please let me know!
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- eclair npr
- motor
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G’day all, I’m on the hunt for a motor for an Eclair ACL. Preferably the higher speed one, but not fussed at this point, just grateful if anyone can please point me the direction of one at all.
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- eclair acl
- 16mmfilm
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I just got an Eclair NPR for a great price, and it came with this Perfectone Type MC 1440 C motor. I have done a lot of research and I couldn't fine any information about this motors. I read all the topics that I could find here in the forum and I found some interesting but mixed information. I understand the original motor didn't have any lights or switches. This motor that I have has a little bulb and it has a switch, for that reason I guess the motor was modified, but I don't know if it's Crystal Sync and I have no idea what the switch does. The XLR connector is a 5 Pin connector. I read at least two versions of the manual and it doesn't mention 5 pin connectors, it mentions that the Perfectone has a 4 pin connector. I learned by searching the threads here that some motors worked with an external box, but I have no idea what was it's function, I saw a picture of one of those boxes and it has a 4 pin Cannon connector too, so I'm confused. As shown in the picture of the removed Cannon connector at the base there are 5 cables coming out of the motor, I guess the two thin green ones carry pulse tone and the 3 thicker ones are the most important in terms of power, one is red which is the thickest one, one is purple and one is orange. Purple is soldered to pin number 1, orange goes trough the main power switch and ends up at pin number 4 and the red one goes trough the switch as well and ends up soldered to pin number 5. I'm going to test with a multi meter, but just looking at the circuit I think red is +, purple is - (coonected to pin 1 as the current standard) but I have no idea what the orange one does. Of course I want to replace the connector with a 4 pin standard so any help with that is welcomed too.
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- eclair npr
- perfectone
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For sale Preston Cables Lot of 8 complete and 3 for parts. In LA, buyer pays shipping. Sold as is. $280.00 for all
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Hi all, wondering if anyone has any insights on this problem I'm having. I got my hands on an Xtera that's been in storage for 5+ years, and while its in darn good condition its got one weird problem - attaching the battery results in the camera instantly running. The test/run wheel's position seems irrelevant to this behavior. I've swapped the body fuses, but theres no change in this behavior. Im using the only battery that will actually charge, attached the VHR shows the battery at 13.7v Anyone ever experienced this or something similar and have any insights? Any chance Im doing something dumb and not realizing it?
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Hello, It seems I can't attach my 400ft mag bolex motor to the mag. Position is correct (with the motor cable pointing to the mag) but even pressing strongly the motor remains unlocked and I am not able to turn clockwise. Are there two versions of motors or some part is missing from mine? I attach pictures of both. Marcos
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Hey everyone! I'm selling my Bartech BFD because I've had a slight career shift and my new work doesn't need the beefier setup of the BFD and M-One Motor. Everything is in used condition, but works great. I have lots of detailed photos and I'm happy to take specific photo requests if you have something you want to see in detail before buying. I'm including everything pictured (except the table or cyc wall). There's a lot in this kit, but I'll break it down as best as I can. Frankly, there's a few cables that came with the BFD when I bought it that I'd be unable to identify properly, but I've included the detailed pictures of all cables and connectors. Here's what's in the kit: Foam-Fitted Handheld Case An ORIGINAL printout, analog paper Manual with OEM staple. Bartech BFD Wireless Transmitter - Handheld Focus Puller (S/N T1.0154) Spare Markers for BFD BFD Hardwire Cable. 25' Cable connecting the Transmitter to the Receiver in case of signal loss or faulty connection. Works great on jibs or cranes. (Reference: Image B) Bartech BFD Wireless Receiver (S/N R1.0154) Horizontal and Vertical Mounts (15mm and 19mm) New Antenna (Not pictured; I lost the original plastic antenna cover, but ordered an entirely new OEM replacement antenna.) BFD Receiver Gimbal Mount - Hard-wire Remote Control for use on a Steadicam, Movi or Ronin. (Reference: Image A) M-One Motor (S/N M-1.0010) Six gears with varying pitches for different size lenses: 0.8m - 32P (2x), 0.5m, 48P, 0.4m - 64P, and 0.6m 15mm, 17mm and 19mm rod adapters for proper mounting fit Misc Hardware for Receiver Mount and replacement screws Additional Cable Assortment 3-Pin male to 3-Pin male LEMO long hardwire power extension cable (Looks to be about 10-15 feet long. I can confirm if you'd prefer, just let me know!) (Reference: Image H) 5-Pin male to 5-Pin male LEMO connector cable from receiver to motor (Reference: Image D) 3-Pin male to 2-Pin male LEMO to power receiver from Steadicam Zephyr (and others with similar 3-Pin connector) (Reference: Image I) Anton Bauer D-Tap male to 2-pin LEMO male to power the receiver from an Anton Bauer battery or V-Mount adapter with proper D-Tap connector. (Reference: Image G) 12V 4-Pin XLR male to 2-pin LEMO male presumably powering the receiver off of beefier film cameras or battery connectors (Reference: Image E) Unidentified 2-pin male LEMO to a fun, half 2-pin male, half 2-pin female connector that I've never seen before or needed to work with. If you recognize it, you get bonus points. (Reference: Image F) I think this last one is an old Panavision connector, if memory serves. But, I'm really not certain on this one either. It's a half 1-pin male, half 1-pin female LEMO connector and a fat 11-pin male connector on the other end. (Reference: Image C) Price: $3750 USD FREE SHIPPING to USA. Will provide quote for international Shipping. Payment via Paypal for Shipping or cash for Local Pickup: Boston area) Pictures attached:
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For sale is a 17ep crystal sync motor for a Konvas. It was serviced about a year ago. Asking 450 USD. Link to ebay
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I am selling my Preston Cinema FI+Z remote lens control system kit. The kit is in like new condition and it has been used on one project only. I am the original owner of the kit. Here are the actual pictures of the items and detailed list what comes in the kit: Asking $27,900 located in Los Angeles Please feel free to contact me if you have any questions or for more pictures at workprintmedia@gmail.com Thank you Gevorg Sarkisian workprintmedia@gmail.com Kit included Items list: 1x Handset HU3 1x MDR-3 1x Micro Force Digital 2 1x PAM-U-15mm Bracket Kit for DM-1X 2x DM-1X Digital Motors 1x DM-2 Digital Motor 1x M/F HU3 Bracket 2x Power 12V 4Pin XLR-2P Lemo Cable 2x Arri 24V PWR/Stop Start Cable 2x Camera EPIC Cable 2x Main Command Cable 2x Cinetape-MDR-3 Cable 3x Motor Cale 90 degree -straight 3x Motor Cable 90 degree-90 degree 1x Digital M/F HU3 Cable 8" 1x Digital M/F HU3 Cable 8' 4x Marking rings 2x Batteries 1x Battery charger 1x Innerspace FI+Z MKIII case
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$900 Or Best Offer. Very rare item, in very good condition. These were only made circa 1982 for the Arri 3C, but are compatible with the 2C as well. 24 or 25 fps crystal switchable. Or, switch to variable mode (non-crystal) for other speeds. I was told the small 4-pin port is for connecting a speed controller for getting crystal sync at other speeds. Powers from 12V 4-pin XLR connector. Can run forwards or reverse - it has a switch for that. It needs a phenolic gear to connect to the drive gear at the bottom of the camera, but that's included with this motor. The motor has captive screws to attach to your 2C or 3C. No power cable included. This item is currently in Los Angeles with a friend. Thanks, Rich
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$1,000 Or Best Offer. This item is currently located with a friend in North Hollywood, CA. I'm based in Brooklyn, NY. For sale is this very rare Arri 3C Crystal Pistolgrip Motor. It's in very good condition for it's age. These were only made circa 1982 for the Arri 3C, but are compatible with the 2C as well. 24 or 25 fps crystal switchable. Or, switch to variable mode (non-crystal) for other speeds. I was told the 4-pin port is for connecting a speed controller for getting crystal sync at other speeds. Runs forwards or reverse (via switch). Powers from 12V 4-pin XLR connector. No power cable included. The motor has captive screws for attaching to your 2C or 3C. Needed phenolic gear is also included. Photos: https://flic.kr/s/aHskUsmaU7 Thanks, Rich
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For sale TOBIN TCS TXM-22A Crystal Sync Motor for Arriflex 16s and 16-M Cameras Bought from Du-All Cameras 3 years ago. Used a couple of times and tested recently. Works flawlessly. Item is in great Condition, with only minimum scratches here and there, barely seen. Serial number 9440 Paid US$ 995.00 (see price label on picture). It's on eBay at US$ 800, but open to Make Offer: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOBIN-TXM-22A-CRYSTAL-MOTOR-FOR-ARRI16S-and-ARRI-16-M-CAMERAS-/172541639598? Feel free to contact me with any questions.
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3x Preston DM1 Motors 1x PAM Jerry Hill Bracket 1x Small Preston Bracket 1x Large Preston Bracket Good condition, full working order. 1 Motor has some visible wear and tear marks. email: forrest.rich@gmail.com Local pick up available in LA. Price: $5,000
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Hi guys. Selling my lovely TOBIN TCS TXM-22 Crystal Sync Motor for Arri 16-S and 16-M. Bought from Du-All Cameras 2 years ago. Only tested, but never used. It´s as new. I will come up with a price and post pictures very soon. Just checking who might be interested. Please get in touch. Cheers. Flavio
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Hello, I am in the market for a Cinema Electronics motor for the ARRI IIC. Please contact me if you have one for sale. Thanks.
- 1 reply
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- Cinematography Electronics
- Arriflex
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I recently picked up a Bolex Unimotor with the Transformer box, but I'm a little unclear on how the box works. There are three pegs and multiple holes and I don't know what the results of the different combinations in the holes are. Does anyone know more about it or have a manual for it? I'm also missing the terminal plate that's used for hooking the motor up to 6v batteries in the case if anyone has an idea of where to get one or how to maybe come up with an alternative (I have the case, just not the terminal plate)
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I just bought a motor for my Arriflex 2b. It is an Arriflex 24f constant speed motor. When I held the two together, the gear in the center of the motor and the gear in the camera are nowhere near each other, and it looks like there is another gear that is missing. I noticed the cine60 base has an intermediate composite gear, is this the same case in the Arri motor? Can I still purchase one of these gears should they exist? Thanks, Max May DP and Writer: Buteo-Gallus Films
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I'm on the cusp of buying the kit I need to convert a Super 8 projector for scanning. I will either cannibalise my nice old Bolex (slightly reluctantly) or buy a cheap ELMO, or something similar. But assuming that the requirements for the motor will be similar across projectors, I wonder what torque I might need? And I can use a 200 step motor or would I need the more expensive 400 step motor for greater accuracy? Thanks for any advice.
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I just purchased a Kodak Instamatic M6 from ebay. It arrived in excellent condition, but was not working (the seller did not say it WOULD work) anyway I checked to make sure all the contacts were clean on the battery compartment, and the cartridge compartment looked decent...all in all it looked like it was in great shape. I opened up the auto exposure control battery part and there was only one battery in it and the battery was corroded a bit, so i removed it cleaned out the compartment and left the battery out. (I am going to buy the necessary two replacement batteries for the auto exposure control) The trigger pushed in, but the motor did not sound as if it were running. i pushed it several times but to no avail. (i think i heard the motor run for a split second twice, but nothing else) my friend looked onver the camera with me and we sprayed some contact cleaner on the regular battery contacts just to make sure. the trigger still did nothing. I held the camera up to my ear and heard a low sort of vibration, as if something completed a circuit inside the camera, but i did not push the trigger in...it was doing this by itself. I took the batteries out and it stopped. I came here and saw a forum post of someone having a similar issue and the replies suggested that the trigger may be "stuck" on or defective, or that the drive shaft gear is not working...because its neoprene and probably has broken because the camera is so old. FINALLY, after all that explanation my question is essentially what should I do now? I have a couple cartridges of film so i could pop one in and see if that works (but i dont see how that would change the trigger) or should i try and take it apart and clean the contact with the trigger, or is it the gear....or basically what are my options.